musings and what-nots from a nut

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Kyiv through my eyes

Figured we can do a walking tour of the city using the guidebook. Started out from the Bessarabsky Market. Loaded myself with figs and honey. Walked uphill, catching sights of the pretty architecture. I like this city. It's not without trees, even in the main streets. Trees lined the streets in a golden hue. Very few people out in the streets. Could be because it's a Sunday morning. Realised many houses in Kyiv have basements. Not used to the idea having come from living in an apartment block all my life.

Sighted two horsemen walking their ponies. I have no idea what race they are or where they come from. They are of stocky build, small stature and have dark hair. Their ponies are as mini as them, and have red, frilly crochet dollies decorated on their heads. They avoided us. Touts in other countries would have loved to hammer tourists to have a ride on their animals. These folks didn't.

Got to the Shevchenko park where the statue of Taras Shevchenko is located. He was a poet/writer who campagined Ukrainian nationalism. We veered off the park and came across the Kyiv university. It is a glorious shade of crimson red. I would love to study in a place with so much history. Apparently, Tsar Nicholas 1 ordered it to be painted red when students protested against army conscription.

A man was juggling on the road with his three (really dirty-looking) poodles.

A little walk off and we came across this lovely church in buttercup yellow, which set off the bright blue domes and golden sparkles on the church perfectly. Ikea! St Volodymyr's Cathedral actually. Women tied on their head scarves before they entered, so we figured we had to do the same. It was my first time in an orthodox Christian church and I was overwhelmed. It is very ornate with frescos and gold trimming everywhere. They lit their candles on the candlestands and made their prayers, heads bowed. The serenity and candle-light glowed on their faces. I took some shots of the church (without flash of course), but was gestured not to do so by a little old lady in the church. Oops, disrespectful. The choir was singing and I guess places of worship are always built in such a way that sound can resonate throughout the whole building. It was quite calming. A few girls in mini-skirts and head scarves turned up for mass.

Some embassies are located very near this church. Was checking out our directions when this old man came and offered to show us his city, where he lived when he was a child. He is now a Canadian citizen. He is a nuclear physicist who left when the Soviet Union disintegrated. He showed us to the Golden Gate where the gate to the ancient city used to stand. It is now reinforced with bricks and wood, and no one is allowed to enter. Graffiti all over the wooden reinforcements. And I could smell pee...

Wandered around, pecking on the pumkin seeds and apricots we had gotten from the market. Got lost and went around in circles. Kept bumping into a very handsome couple and their baby girl. Waved to them a few times. Wondered if they had gotten lost too...

Finally found St Sophia Cathedral. I did not put on my leggings and my ass was feeling the draft. So cold, I was in no mood to take any photos. The cathedral is actually modelled after the Sophia Church in Turkey. Imagine that! The frescos and mosiac in this place are really gorgeous. From a distance, I could not even tell that they were made of tiles - it looked like painted frescos. The golden tiles really shone through in the dim light. I couldn't help but wonder why cathedrals and churchs are all so dark. They had a mini exhibition on the history of Kyiv, but there were very little translations in English. Just too bad. But what we did find out was that the main city of Kyiv is located on a hill. The ridge provided a natural barrier around the city. And that there are 400 churches in Kyiv alone. 400!

It started raining. Cold and wet. Walked across the square to St Michael's Cathedral. It's so shiny and blue. The actual monastery was torn down by the Russians in 1936. So this is pretty new. It's really pretty. Witnessed three couples getting married on that day. Went in for a look-see. They kiss the tablet (what is it named exactly?) and wipe it off with a towel tied to the side. They purchase candles when they enter the cathedrals. We snucked into the tiny chapel by the side where the bride and groom where undergoing their ceremony. The priests held crowns over their heads. The couples all look really young. Well, Sergey did say traditionally girls get married around 18 years old. Too old and people find it strange. "To keep the fire in the cave" He said, and I burst out laughing. The dresses had hoops of metal wiring to give it a puffy effect. They're tall, so it doesn't look ridiculous.

One day after work, we walked into the chapel again. They were practising their singing. And I just stood there, mesmerised by the harmonious chorus. It was beautiful.

Went to a chocolate bar. Yummy, crushed hazelnuts scattered over the liquid chocolate. I was expecting hot cocoa, but it turned out to be melted chocolate. Max brenner! I couldn't read a word, thank goodness for english menus!

2 Comments:

Blogger Xïåöhüï said...

Very nice.

But why no pics??

1:41 pm

 
Blogger Kheng said...

I'm going to blog about Paris very soon. I'm so lazy! =p

11:01 am

 

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